By Daniel McBane
The Chinese are famous for eating everything. Name an animal and I
guarantee there’s a restaurant that serves it; name any part of that
animal and they’ll have a dish featuring it. To be fair, mostly this
stereotype applies to the south. There’s even a saying among the Chinese
that people in Guangdong province “eat everything that swims except the
submarine, everything that flies except the airplane and everything
with four legs except the table.” But times are changing. These days,
the growing middle class no longer feasts on many of the more unusual
delicacies. For first-hand proof, head to Wangfujing in Beijing.
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An alleyway off Wangfujing street in Beijing
Wangfujing is the capital’s most famous shopping district. High-end
brands line the main street and street stalls selling the standard
trinkets line the alleys. Among the trinkets sits an area of food
stalls. Many of them sell popular Chinese street food. Other stalls sell
food more popular with camera-toting tourists.
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Some of the more unusual snacks on offer in Wangfujing
We were just such tourists and took numerous photos of skewered, but
still living, scorpions, crickets, spiders, starfish and countless
unidentifiable creatures. It wasn’t long before a group of Chinese
tourists challenged us to try some of these treats. We were planning on
doing so anyway, but thought it would be nice to have some company, so
we asked them to join us. They just laughed and told us they don’t eat
that crap—it’s just for foreign tourists.
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Lizards and worms…more crap no local seemed to want
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We didn’t try any starfish, but someone later told me they actually tasted the worst
Sure enough, when we took a closer look at the hundreds of Chinese
people around us, we saw many of them eating, but they were all enjoying
dumplings or pancakes or other standard street foods. The only people
eating insects were another group of foreigners—and they were surrounded
by Chinese tourists egging them on and snapping photos. I’m sure the
Chinese returned from their vacations with hilarious tales of idiot
foreigners who will eat anything if you tell them it’s a local delicacy.
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Not sure what those are…but isn’t your mouth watering?
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Some kind of bird. Probably whatever was unlucky enough to land on this street that morning.
That said, I didn’t really care whether Chinese people actually eat
that stuff or not. I was simply too curious to pass up the opportunity
to have some scorpions. My friends and I each purchased a skewer of live
scorpions and one of crickets. We watched the ‘chef’ sprinkle them with
seasoning and briefly dunk them in hot oil. He assured us the heat
should neutralize the poison.
“Should?” I didn’t like the sound of that, but I told myself it was
probably just his poor English—he had simply used the wrong word. “The
heat absolutely, definitely, 100%, without a doubt neutralizes the
poison.”
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The scorpion skewers. They were still moving.
The unusual meal had been my idea, so I went first. I started with
the scorpions, since I figured they would be the least pleasant. I
pulled the first one off the skewer with my teeth and put the whole
thing in my mouth. It was crispy, just like fried chicken skins or any
other deep-fried animal skin. They scorpion was so thin, that the whole
thing had been fried to a crisp, with no softer flesh inside. The
seasoning was nice, so it actually tasted pretty good. I ended up
finishing the skewer.
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Enjoying some scorpions
Everyone else followed my lead and polished off their scorpions
without incident. The crickets were next. We though they would be easier
than the scorpions, but boy were we wrong. They were fatter, so the
insides were still mushy, but that wasn’t the biggest problem. It was
the wings.
We didn’t know that at first. One of my friends put a cicket in his
mouth and started chewing. Seconds later, he was hopping around and
squealing and clearly not enjoying his snack. My description does not
come close to accurately describing his little freak-out dance. We
should have had a video of it, but the guy in charge of filming should
not have been in charge of filming. He screwed something up and now no
one but us will ever know just how funny this scene was. Eventually he
calmed down and managed to tell us that the wings had gotten stuck in
his throat and the feeling freaked him out. His inability to dislodge
the wings freaked him out more.
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Cricket skewers. Watch out for the wings.
Armed with this information, the rest of us chewed the crap out of
our crickets before swallowing them. Despite that, we couldn’t get the
wings chewed up enough to go down easily and they hung in our throats
for longer than we would have liked. We were ready for it though, so we
skipped the dancing and squealing. Afterward, we were informed by some
helpful Chinese onlookers that people usually just pull the wings off
and toss them. Thanks for the timely advice. I hope you got some great
photos.
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Not enjoying the crickets nearly as much as the scorpions
After the crickets, we were suddenly feeling pretty stuffed, so we
passed on any further insect skewers. Luckily we all seem to have
lightning-fast metabolisms, though. When we passed stalls selling
dumpling and other more standard—and, let’s face it, much more
appetizing—snacks 20 meters down the alley, we were suddenly starving
again. Instead of turning around and going back for more insects, we
just stayed put and had some dumplings. Due to the convenience, of
course. I mean, the dumplings were right next to us.
If you’re ever in Beijing, you’ll definitely want to check out the
Wangfujing area. If you enjoy shopping, I’m told you can’t miss it and
if you enjoy eating, I’m telling you, you can’t miss it. Even if you
don’t want to try any insects or other creatures yourself, you can join
the Chinese tourists in watching other foreigners make spectacles of
themselves, while enjoying your dumplings, bowl of noodles, pancake, ice
cream or corn dog. Or maybe your scorpions?
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